Madonna di Campiglio looks alot funner than it was. Sure it was fun, just not FUN! Smaller than it seems, flatter than it appears, we nonetheless had a good few days there after a bit of fresh snow. More of a family piste skiers resort than a powder seekers nirvana, it is easy to sit back, watch the beautiful people stroll by in the classy village or just sip a spritzer up high whilst gawping at the gorgeous mountains. I'd go back if only to use the lifts to get up high and explore the Brenta Dolomites backcountry on skis ....
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A ski trip to Madonna di Campiglio conjures up a genteel image of a snow clad village deep in a valley, perfect pistes, sunshine, spectacular mountains, fur clad promenaders and a few Aperol Spritzers before some fine Italian dining. Funny thing is that the image is mostly true. Just look at the photos in the overview and with this review.

But there is always more to a place than a few photos can show, especially when one visits at the absolute height of the season in the second week of February.

Arriving in Madonna di Campiglio for the first time on a day trip, we joined a small procession of vehicles that bumbled about the pretty town looking for a place to park. Confusion reigns – the town is not car friendly in winter. First lesson learnt. Even though there are numerous sensational ski lifts directly in the town, day trippers need to look elsewhere to park.

Backtracked to the base of the Groste gondola. A small parking fee allowed us to prop within 50m of the lift. Great facilities are immediately obvious. Accommodation, restaurant, café, ski storage, ticket office, skier bridge across the road to another linking lift & of course the mandatory après ski yurt. Let the skiing begin....

The highest terrain in the resort faces northwest and has wonderful snow quality. Reaching just over 2500m, the terrain at Passo Grostè is sadly lacking in any pitch but is perfect for beginners, lower intermediates & those wanting to huck a few jumps in the ‘Ursus’ Snowpark. Ursus is of course named after the brown bears that inhabit the mountains here. The modern lifts, terrain park, excellent mountain restaurant (Stoppani) & classic Rifugio Graffer, combine well with the cold, dry snow & gobsmacking views to provide a stellar ski experience. We skied fresh low angle untracked lines in 20cm+ of powder a full day after the last snow. A nice endorsement for the mountain.

Passo Grostè is a good staging point to access some of the epic backcountry freeride terrain in the Brenta Dolomites. A look at the local Tabacco Map number 053 (Dolomiti di Brenta) reveal the many options for adventure in the area. So much to do, so little time.

Further down at the tree line we dived off under the Groste gondola line into steep untouched larch & pine terrain. More freshies when we expected none. Those who seek, reap!

Popping out near the old Vagliana chair we did a quick off piste exploration of the treed & rolling terrain, then journeyed on the longest trail in the resort down to opposite the satellite village of Campo Carlo Magno. The trail is no place for snowboarders as it is flat & uphill for long sections requiring skating & pushing. Alright for us but was clearly no fun for the beginners & snowboarders pushing along.

From a Powderhounds point of view we then arrived at what should be the best lift in the resort but instead is two old bangers that are tediously slow. The two chairlifts (Nube d'Argento & Nube d'Orohead) up the excellent Monte Spinale & reveal the best inbounds off piste in the entire resort. Now to be fair, one could ski this terrain utilising the Spinale gondola from Madonna, but it involves a tedious traverse into town & then skis off for the gondola ride (not something an aging telemarker likes doing!). A modern chair here would be quick frankly awesome. Instead it is just ok. If the snow is good, the terrain through here directly under the chair is the ‘go to’ on a powder morning with a great combination of alpine steeps & gullies blending into light & then heavy trees. Monte Spinal has a cracking top to bottom advanced trail running under the gondola. Hang on to your helmet as it is super-fast down the bottom end.

Lunch in the village of Madonna di Campiglio can be as simple or refined as one wants. We opted for simple. Soaking up the midday sun with a panini & coffee, watching the passers-by. The village isn’t as intense as we expected. Always on the refined side of the ledger (confirmed with an inspection of the local shops!), it lacks a thriving centre, giving one the impression the village is quite sedate. The reality is …………. that the village is quite sedate.

One thing the village does have is a huge amount of access to the slopes. Whilst there is no easy way to ski or use a lift to get from one side of the valley to the other in the village (you are gonna walk), there are five gondolas & a chairlift extending from its outskirts. Now 2 of those are linking gondolas between Pinzolo & Madonna, but still, that’s more gondolas than I can recall heading out of any ski village in the world. (Happy to be corrected!).

The opposite side of the valley is a huge contrast to the Spinale/Groste side. Accessed from the sitting Cinque Laghi & the standing Pradalago gondolas, the southeast facing slopes are mostly tree lined & sundrenched. The views over the village to the Brenta range are amazing. The piste trails are for all skiing abilities & stream wonderfully down the 5-600m vertical back to town. They are only spoilt by some long slow traverses in the lower sections which are not clearly indicated on the trail map. Snowboarders beware. One can easily access some high alpine backcountry bowls below Monte Zeledria. The Pradalago/5 Laghi side of Madonna is the ‘go to’ piste skiers’ area. The Rifugio Viviani is the place to rest, lunch or snack. The Cinque Laghi top station bar/restaurant outdoor area is the place for the best views over the valley & Dolomiti di Brenta.

To the north of the Pradalago, lifts & pistes link with the Folgarida Marilleva ski resort. The area can get very busy in the morning with skiers pouring in from the top of the Marilleva lifts. Avoid it at all costs on weekends & during peak season.

For après ski fun, aside from the mountain huts, the Groste & Spinal gondola base area yurts are far & away the best. Remember that the traffic coming down the runs into these lifts by afternoon can be quite frightening – even for us hardened campaigners.

Accommodation wise, Madonna di Campiglio was booked out during our visit. A common occurrence from all reports. The best ski resort village alternatives are Campo Carlo Magno (above Madonna) and Pinzolo (down the Val Rendena). Next best is Folgarida and then the Val di Sole towns of Mezzana & the like. Price goes down proportionate to the distance from Madonna di Campiglio.

Cast aside some of my cynicism and enjoy all that Madonna has to offer – a classic Italian ski resort experience.
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