Zillertal Arena is a classically diverse & interesting interconnected Austrian ski area that will please 9 out 10 visitors. For the other 1 out of 10 visitors thankfully the many other Ziller valley resorts (Mayrhofen, Hochzillertal & Hintertux Glacier et al) has something for you too!

Our visit in mid-January followed a stellar powder weekend at nearby Alpbach, so expectations were very high! Whilst much of the ‘low hanging fruit’ was already tracked out, there was certainly a lot of adventure still to be had. From a powderhounds point of view the best off-piste zones in the resort include anything off the Übergangsjoch summit (including off the peak to the south and then a traversing exit to the Kreuzwiesen chair), the many variations into the Krummbachtal from Isskogel or further down the ridge, and the Falschbach side of the 2315m Königsleitenspitze.

Once one works out the entries & exits, the complex terrain on the cold, northern side of the highest lifted point, 2,500m Übergangsjoch, has some enjoyable freeride runs of up to 500m vertical. All descents involve some shorts ascents and/or climbs but are worth if for freshies. The terrain on skier’s right of the Krimml Xpress lift is far better than that on the opposite side. Indeed, the groomed piste number 21 down to Krimmlalm under the lift is way more fun than the off-piste to skiers left!

After a break, we headed for a fantastic freeride descent into the Krummbachtal working our way down to exit along the stream near the valley station of the Krummbach X-Press lift. Snow in the shaded sections was cold, dry, and perfect. Snow on the forested traverse out was less pleasant but still joyous for the adventure of it all. The final section required poling and skating in the valley alongside a gorgeous babbling brook but was sheer pleasure, and a great reminder that skiing isn’t all about deep powder and steep terrain.

What surprised us though was that despite being at 1,300m elevation and with heavy snow less than 48hr earlier, the lower south-aspect slopes (the sunny side) at Gerlos were practically bereft of natural snow. We also found the village at Gerlos to be the least appealing place to stay. Poor service & food in several establishments hardened our resolve that despite its premium location in the centre of the resort, it was the worst kind of kitsch resort village that is best avoided. Having said that, we are sure that thousands would disagree with us and will find Gerlos to be absolutely amazing. It does have great ski lift interconnection with the resort, plenty of high-end hotels and apartments plus a few fun après ski venues.

Away from Gerlos, the Zillertal Arena’s sprawling lift & piste network will particularly appeal to beginner & intermediate skiers & boarders. Kilometre after kilometre of piste are available, all connected by modern lifts. Beginners are best off at the Krimml end of the resort lapping the many runs on the Plattenkogel summit. Intermediates will adore the multitude of groomed slopes Rosenalm and around the Koenigsleitenspitze. For advanced on-piste challenges, the best of them is the full 1,920m vertical descent from the Übergangsjoch summit (2,500m) all the down into the Zell am Ziller base (580m). Anyone that can do it without stopping is a way stronger skier than me!

The most pleasing of the resort’s villages is Königsleiten. Its low-rise, understated architecture situated on a snow-laden, yet sunny, south-aspect at 1,600m altitude make it a promising prospect. The lifts heading up and around the Koenigsleiten sector are fantastically comfortable. 8-seater gondolas and 6-seater chairs all with heated seats for toasty bottoms are a delightful treat. For powder turns with a little pitch in the morning, head up and across to the Falschbach gondola. There are many long laps to be done in this high alpine zone, just traverse further right on every lap and reap the harvest. Opposite Koenigsleiten, on the other side other the Gerlos pass, the village of Hochkrimml-Gerlosplatte spreads along the flanks of Plattenkogel. Convenient to the resort’s best beginner terrain, we didn’t get there to discover its possibilities.

For us, we stayed in a remote farm high above the Zillertal overlooking Zell am Ziller and the Karspitz sector of the resort. It provided splendid, self-contained isolation on a working dairy farm. We even had some excellent ski-touring prospects straight out of our front door. Of course we may have had trouble getting there without a rental car, but a free ski bus did make several journeys a day right past the driveway (despite being seemingly miles from the resort). Our elderly hosts spoke zero English but that just made for a whole lot of fun!

For many, the most convenient place to stay overnight will be in Zell im Zillertal itself. Neither pretty nor unpleasant, Zell has a range of hotels and other accommodations within easy walking distance of the centrally located train station. The town benefits from having all the required services nearby, plus easy free ski bus links to the two gondola bases at the bottom of the resort. We think the Rosenalmbahn is the better lift to take in the morning if looking to explore all the way to the far end of the resort near Krimml.

A nasty surprise at Zillertal Arena is the mass of skiers in certain parts of the mountain, with the Gerlos sector the worst offender. The #36 advanced piste could best be described as nightmarish. A poorly signposted and graded entry, which seems to suck unsuspecting beginners down into a black run, is a major contributor to the carnage. This correspondent got collected twice by out-of-control skiers, the second time whilst standing to help the first person that ran me down! Have never experienced that anywhere in the world! Be careful in this sector!

One thing Zillertal Arena has is a plethora of different versions of its yellow elephant mascot - on the nose of a tractor, on direction signage, as a picnic area seat, as a costumed human at the valley station giving out sweets….. Not sure how they came up with having a yellow elephant as a resort mascot, but we liked it. See how many different ones you can find when you visit and go on a magical mystery tour across this vast Austrian ski resort. And while you are in the valley, check all the other Zillertal resorts too. So much skiing, so little time!

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Vast and varied terrain here. Something for everyone. Watch out on one of the black runs above Gerlos (can't remember the exact one)..............absolute carnage. Stay in Koenigsleiten or the Ziller valley. Gerlos is ghastly.
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We launched our day from Zell im Zillertal making our way up to the Übergangsjoch at 2500m with wonderful views on our clear and sunny day.

The route from Übergangsjoch to Isskogel is visually stunning given the different terrain that you don't usually see in a ski area. With more time to explore there are definitely interesting powder lines to be found here.

Beware of the black piste run number 36. It has a steep pitch and seems to funnel in skiers of all abilities out of the learners/intermediate Arena Center area. It becomes quite the challenge to get down when it gets busy and you can easily get taken out despite your best efforts. Also steer clear of the Prölleralm hut on the 36 if you are on a budget. This was certainly the most expensive $$$$$ morning tea of our month long ski trip through Austria.

The highlight of a wonderful day was our back country run dropping in behind the Arena Center from the top of the Ebenfeld-X-Press chair. The powder down to the tree line was sublime and that's where the adventure takes a twist. It's a very challenging (snow depth was sketchy in areas) exit through the trees going deep into Krummbachtal through paddocks and barns which leads to the superb walking track along a creek which ends at the base of the Krummbach-X-Press. It's a great ski and quite the workout but if you take the time to do it and really stop to appreciate your surrounds, it rewards you with a certain satisfaction reserved for those who undertake that which most will never do.

We finished our day with our best feed of the trip at the gorgeous Wiesenalm located at the top of Rosenalmbahn 1 just above Zell im Zillertal. Superb food with a better range then the standards you get at most alpine huts and view to die for. Ticks all the boxes.
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